Sunday, 30 August 2015

The Pop Market - A Raver's Guide to the Portobello Road Market 1966

It's just a narrow gulf of a street twisting down from the posh end at Notting Hill Gate - all antique shops and arty cottages - to the junk shops and vegetable stalls nearer Kensal Town. Nothing special during the week, you might think, but on Saturdays the joint is jumping! The Portobello Road is where ravers go to look for bargains, buy clothes, meet their friends and above all, to see and be seen. Early Saturday morning the dealers in antique clothes set up their stalls along the pavements, and the antique markets and arcades get out their stock: rows of swinging necklaces, cases of heavy rings, piles of plates and silverware, trays full of odd buttons and broken watches. By eleven o'clock it's crowded out, but not only with the trade dealers you might expect. Swinging London descends en masse into the hundred yards of narrow street to look for bargains.

It's getting to the decadent stage now. The French and Americans arrive by the taxi load to stand gawping at the capes, the scarlet jackets and the clashing mini-skirts. All just as they'd read in the Wisconsin Times or the Hooterville Gazette. Long-haired guitarists strum soulfully by the railings opposite Henekeys, one of the main pubs, and further down the street a young singer with a beard and no teeth collects money in a tattered old cap, while the swarms of photographers, who outnumber everyone else, shoot everyone that moves. Among the movers you might see Mick Jagger and Chrissie Shrimpton, or it might be John Lennon and Cynthia, or maybe The Who. There are very few pop stars who haven't bought stuff from the market.

''I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet'', purveyors of military and original Victorian gear, sells all manner of frills, furs and laces. Roger Daltrey of The Who bought some sailors white bell-bottoms there. Gary Farr of the T-Bones walked out with several American Navy tee shirts. Charlie Watts has bought jackets there and so have Ray Davies, Mick Jagger and John Lennon. But it is Eric Clapton of the Cream who is regarded as the real trend-setter, perhaps because he spends most time there. Fur coats go for five pounds down the Market. And jacket and capes go for two pounds or even thirty shillings. Long Victorian dresses vary in price from about a pound to three pounds. But in all cases, you'll get what you want cheaper if you bargain for it, and that applies especially to clothes more than jewellery. Rings and necklaces are more expensive, because their value doesn't decrease with age. Nevertheless, it's still cheaper than average, and probably the best selection of Victorian jewellery in London.

But the wildest gear is on the people; yellow coat and pink tie, silver stockings and swirling green cloak. So if you fancy joining in before it dies the unnatural death of all ''in'' places, here are a few facts about where to go, how to get there and what to look for....
FRIDAY. The junk market. A lot of real rubbish..odd china, old books and kitchen sinks. But some real finds in the way of pictures, records and the odd antique, if you have the patience to look. All day at Kensal Rise end.
SATURDAY. The antique market. Lovely antique rings and stones. Lots of period clothes, mainly nineteenth and early twentieth century, at any price from ten shillings to five pounds. Starts early morning and goes on until early evening.

Looks as though the girl above prefers antique jewellery - the market's speciality. Stones on sale tend to be onyx and agate rather than gold and diamonds, but if you fancy something more flashy, there are some fantastic copies of really old rings in very elaborate.

Wild satin shirt in gold, bound with red velvet - modelled by RAVE girl Lesley Garner - sells in ''I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet'' for thirty shillings. Clothes like this make you wonder who wore them in the first place. If half the stock is Army and Navy surplus then the other half must come from a theatrical costumier!

Detail from the illustrated map of Portobello Road by Alan Parry which accompanies the feature, be sure to click on the first image at the top of the page to view a close-up of the entire map.

Look down into the crowd at the Portobello Road Market and you might pick out someone like Eric Clapton of the Cream, seen above shopping for rings. Hasn't he got enough already?

                                                  Sailor jacket from I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet.

This couple have found what they were looking for - an American tunic at fifty shillings, and the miniest of Guard's tunics in lime green for four pounds. Victorian dresses like the one on the model can be bought at the market for anything from one to four pounds, but be careful - dresses like this show their age far more than heavy capes and jackets. Lace and feathers tend to decay with time, so inspect them before buying or your dress might fall to pieces the first time you put it on. Updated 2/9/2015: I've recently discovered the identity of the couple in this photograph, they are David Mainman and the artist Olivia Temple, you can visit Olivia's website here.

                                                                      IMAGE CREDITS
All original information & images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE  magazine December 1966. Original editorial by Lesley Garner, Photographs by Mark Sharratt, Portobello Road Market illustration by Alan Parry. 
                                            The history of Portobello Road can be found here.
Great photos by Simos Tsapnidis of the famous Pubs Henekeys and Finches on Portobello Road. London 1966 and 1967 & much more here.   Dennis Wilson & Al Jardine of The Beach Boys shopping on Portobello road, filmed in 1966 by Peter Whitehead. Edited to accompany the Spectrum's 1967 45 release, here.

Sunday, 23 August 2015

Andre 1968

                                                                     IMAGE CREDIT
                  Image scanned from Jours de France, 23 March, 1968. With thanks to Brad Jones.

Wednesday, 19 August 2015

A & B GIRL 1964

Fashions and records...they've both got two sides. Here's the A side of fashion, flip the page and there's the B side...and Twelve steps To Loveliness.

'A' SIDE...A party-best dress for Halloween - or any other night of the year - in white net, dolled up with red velvet ribbon under the bustline, and long layered, see-through, sleeves. By Susan Small £12 1s 6d. The white satin little girl-look shoes are by Loftus, £2 19s 6d. and the ritzy bracelet comes from a range at Fenwicks of Bond Street, £1 5s.

'B' SIDE...How's this for contrast? But isn't it great! The suit, in grey flannel is just like a man's, pockets, trouser crease and all, and a half-belt across the back. But the price is girl-sized. It's £7 17s 6d. by Slimma. It's worn with over-the-ankle Chukka boots in brown suede by Saxone, £3 19s 11d. Right; 7 & 8 respectively His or her clothes? Both actually. The white-collar workers shirt is made by Her Tern in blue and white gingham. The cost £1 19s 6d. The second-skin trousers are made for men at His Clothes and cost £2 19s 6d. Heeps of girls are buying these trousers and having them shortened while they wait.

5 This is the only new dress shape since the shift. It's cut as simply as a child's smock, with long school-room sleeves. It's deceptively expensive though. Cost is £15 10s by Jane and Jane.

                                                                    IMAGE CREDITS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Rave and Hit Parade No.9 October 1964. Fashion notes by Penny Vincenzi, All photographs by Anthony Rawlinson.

                                         Some Classic Old Print Ads by  Sir Anthony Rawlinson here.

Saturday, 8 August 2015

Bata Shoe Advert 1970

                                                                      IMAGE CREDIT
  Image scanned from Elle Collections, 2 March, 1970 with thanks to Brad Jones. Artist uncredited.                     

Wednesday, 29 July 2015

Let Colour Go To Your Head 1972

                                                                        IMAGE CREDITS
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from LOVING February 5th 1972, with thanks to Kirstin Sibley. Original article by Janice Collier, Hair styled by Harold Leighton, Photographer & Model uncredited.

Saturday, 25 July 2015

Beyond Biba - Barbara Hulanicki Cosmetics

I've recently photographed some examples of the Barbara Hulanicki Cosmetics range from my personal collection, which I purchased on Ebay circa 2008. The range was developed in the early 1980s and eventually launched in autumn of 1983, the decision to produce a Hulanicki range was largely influenced by the continuing success of the Biba cosmetics line that she had created in 1970 which was still available nationwide throughout Britain via Dorothy Perkins and also at Etam branches and selected chemists in the Republic of Ireland, proving unequivocally, that inspite of Big Biba's demise some 8 years previously, the popularity of the brand and the legacy of Biba was still very much alive and well. The vibrant new 1980s Hulanicki range was encased in Barbara's signature Art Deco style packaging and moderately priced, with blushers retailing at £5.85, lipsticks at £2.65 and nail varnish at £1.99. It was initally available through Top Shop & The Body Shop in the UK and H&M (known as Hennes & Mauritz at the time) in Sweden and Germany. In 1985 it launched in the USA, retailing through Macy's Department Store and Judy shops in California until 1989 when Barbara sold the cosmetics line to the L.A based investors of Ronnie Wood's nightclub Woody's On The Beach, whereafter it disappeared from view, until now....

Art deco influenced retail display unit from the Barbara Hulanicki Cosmetic range, c.1983.

Barbara Hulanicki, sketches for cosmetic colours and looks, 1983.

A selection of shades from the Barbara Hulanicki eyeshadow range, starting at the very top and moving in a clockwise direction, the colours are as follows: Pitchblack No.28; Opal No. 9; Cosmic No.8; Dallas No.27; and lastly Nocturne No.13.

Packaging detail from the Barbara Hulanicki cosmetic range 1983.

Example of a plastic carrier bag from the range featuring the brand logo.

Four mascaras from the Barbara Hulanicki cosmetic range 1983. Left to Right; Dracula No.104 (black of course,the name speaks for itself); 122 (a bright metallic jade green, this one had no specific identifying name other than the number but it may possibly have been called Goblin); Queen No.107 (a bright metallic amethyst purple); and finally, Devil No.106 (a burnished metallic red).

 Hulanicki Nail Varnish in Tremor No.32 (a burnished old gold).

                                         Radium No.3 mini blush (a very bright/neon fuschia).

                           Hulanicki 'Tremor' nail varnish No.32,  art deco influenced packaging detail.


My complete collection of Hulanicki Cosmetics, the two silver compact cases are empty apart from a mirror inside, sadly there is no actual product or indication of what it may have originally contained, but i'm presuming that it would have been pressed powder or perhaps a larger format blusher.

                                 IMAGE CREDITS
All Hulanicki cosmetic product images photographed by Sweet Jane from my personal collection, Barbara Hulanicki illustration 1983 scanned from The Biba Years 1963-1975, Special thanks to Likrish Marchese of Barbara Hulanicki Design for personally providing me with the photograph of the cosmetics display unit and all additional information.                                                      
                                                 You can find Barbara Hulanicki Design here.
                                                    Barbara Hulanicki on Facebook & Twitter.
                                                  Ronnie Wood's websiteFacebook & Twitter.
                                                   My post about Biba's American debut here.
                                   A make-up tutorial with Biba girl Ingrid Boulting in 1971 here
A contemporary make-up tutorial inspired by the Biba look can be found on the Lisa Eldridge website here.             

Thursday, 9 July 2015

The Culture Vulture 1970

                                                                      IMAGE CREDIT
            Image scanned by Sweet Jane from New York Magazine March 9 1970. Artist uncredited.